Mendoza City Visit

by Lynn, posted in Mendoza, Argentina

A leisurely start to the day, breakfasting at 9am. A chat to some fellow British tourists lamenting Chile’s troubles and what they had seen in the last few days when they were visiting Santiago – burnt out military vehicles, looted buildings, boarded shops, fires…their tour operator had moved them to a hotel out of the centre and they still went on a tour that omitted all the main sites because of the violence. They said it’s far worse than is being reported.

After blast We left for Mendoza city. A good tip, set up Google maps whilst in wifi with your destination, even when no internet connection the GPS still works. All my mobile data is off as is David’s. However we did need it on two occasions for about 5 mins each time and it cost S$80. We are planning on buying a local data chip but yet to have passport handy when we find the right place.

Mendoza’s original city established in 1561 suffered a devastating earthquake in 1861, killing over 5000 people. A new city was established, with a modern grid system, very wide avenues lined with leafy trees & side walks with cafes and restaurants. There are some impressive colonial houses and a general European feel. Plaza Independencia is the biggest park in Mendoza and is very impressive covering 420 hectares. We walked about 8km building up an appetite for lunch. Lynn enjoyed a bit of retail therapy in Av.Sarmiento, but the perfectly fitting leather jacket has eluded her so far. Am sure it’s just a matter of time 🙂

We ate at La Marchiana, an Italian Argentinian restaurant that had great writes ups for it’s history and excellent cuisine. It was still fairly full and cool, (temperature outside around 28C) when we arrived at 2.30 and looked promising. The light spring salad was very good, the pasta good, feeling a little naughty we ordered dessert, it wasn’t worth the calories. Overall an average Italian. Still lunch with a couple of alcoholic drinks was only £30! Lonely Planet had it showing $$$. A very attentive waiter who it turned out was a Football fanatic who supports Leeds United because their manager is from Argentina. Nice young chap though 🙂

As mentioned a little shopping before lunch, Levi jeans, one pair £30 or S$50, also bought a t-shirt. After lunch drove back to the hotel, about 30 mins, for a late siesta. Most Argentinian’s siesta at least in the north is from 1pm to 5pm. Planning on a stroll a little later into our local village that has some lovely shops and bars, later pack for an early start with a 0955 flight to San Martin de los Andes(Patagonia) via Buenos Aires. Up until now the weather has treated us well with daytime temps in the mid to high 20sC and high teens at night. Things are looking to cool down a bit as we head south.

Mendoza wine tour & lunch

by Lynn, posted in Mendoza, Argentina

Our hotel staff are very knowledgeable and helped us plan our day. We chose to drive ourselves with me literally tasting and not really drinking. As many of my friends know I really can’t drink much anyway before falling over! We were supposed to visit three, recommended max in a day, with the last stop also including a gourmet lunch. We were a bit slow this morning so only made the 11am wine tasting at Casarena Bodega in Lujan de Cuyo, 15 mins drive from our hotel, followed by a really lovely lunch and more tasting at Dominio del Plata, a further 10 minute drive away. The 9.30 tasting we felt was just a tad too keen. Seemingly you must book your visits, your hotel can do this for you or try direct on line with individual wineries.

Driving here is undaunting, however as two policemen tried to point out on our trip to the Andes yesterday, I got it on the second time of being stopped. All vehicles must have their headlights (not side lights as I had, after the first advisory) on at all times, day and night. Have yet to attempt night driving, probably won’t!

A wine tour can be booked with a single guide or with a group that will include lunch, but count on it costing a lot more, often more than 3 times as it would doing it yourself, which was our preference.

The first winery, now owned by an American family bought in 1995 from an Italian family who had initially established it in 1937. Seemingly many wineries are owned by foreigners and few by Argentines . The cost of the wine tour and generous tasting of 4 wines was $600 pesos per person or at this time US$10.

Pictures taken below include the way Wines are stored in order to ferment and mature. In the old days in large concrete tanks, now used as storage areas. Today mostly in stainless steel tanks, although they have created large concrete tanks similar to those used in the past, however, unlike the past, now with an epoxy lining. Wine is later transferred to American and French oak barrels. Many of the live vines had a protective taught mesh over them. I thought perhaps because of the many birds but no, it was to protect the vines from hailstones which at times can be as large as tennis balls. In every other aspect the climate is perfect for wine growing with much additional and essential irrigation. We watched a number of hawks circling and diving for their prey in and around the vineyards.

Lunch Was taken at the next winery with views over lush vineyards. We enjoyed a fabulous 5 course gourmet meal with accompanying wines which was of a very high standard. David drank most of my wine! We finished with a coffee. This was the most expensive meal thus far, $6700 pesos or US$114 for two. Utterly amazing value, due mostly in part to the tough economic situation, rapid inflation and currency devaluation they are experiencing.

After lunch we headed back to our welcoming hotel for a rest by the pool for the remaining part of the afternoon. The amount of birds and different species means you get to see and hear plenty of species without venturing far – the pool area being a perfect spot.

A quick word on laundry, certainly every hotel thus far offers a daily service and whilst you do prepare a list, the cost is charged by the bag. Just washed dried and folded at a cost of $500 pesos a bag – about US$8.5. Great value! Irons are available if you are so inclined.

Andes visit from Mendoza

by Lynn, posted in Mendoza, Argentina

Sunday – we slept in until 08.30 bliss, even read the papers before making it down to breakfast at 10. Today we decided to follow lonley planets advice and hit the Andes mountains. First stop an hour from Mendoza, the blue lakes of Poterillos Dam, stunning blue waters, then to Uspallater, another hours drive, winding our way higher, a very small town about 40 minutes from the ski resort (hmmm felt lonely planet over stated this place). Changed Drivers, now me, as honestly feeling a tad bit car sick, better that I drive! Another hour brought us to Aconcagua National Park,  but we decided to visit a place close to the Chillian border first -Cuevas, a stark border town in the shadows of the mountains. The best destination was the National Park, huge, desolate, stunningly beautiful and a joy to follow some of the trekking paths. We are the blue dot on the map below.

Pictures of the journey there and finishing with those at the National park. Sadly they don’t capture the incredible beauty and multitude of colours that resonated though our amazing visit. Arrived back to the hotel having driven 6 hours, walked for 2 hours, in need of a shower, a drink and some food! Forgot to mention we were breathless as walking at 11300 ft. There were some people around but not many so a very special experience.

Traveling to Mendoza

by Lynn, posted in Uncategorized

Not a lot to report as really a day of travel. Took an Aerolineas Argentinas flight to Mendoza via Buenos Aires, with another upgrade to the wide comfortable seats, so two times one hour and forty minutes with an hours connection. So far that’s 3 flights with AA that have all been on time, apparently the norm is anything but! We did ask on boarding the second flight if our bags were on board and gave him the bag tags to scan. He looked, said yes they are on board, we asked how did he know and he replied he trusted his colleagues! Apparently they can’t check through the electronic tag! Thankfully the bags did appear at Mendoza. Pictures below from the plane into Buenos Aires and then Mendoza.

On arrival we picked up our booked Avis car – really important to reserve a car if self driving as seems they get booked up. The hotel we are staying at for 4 nights in Mendoza is called Lares de Chacras, it’s a small boutique hotel of 11 rooms which is absolutely lovely. Highly recommend. We ate at a good restaurant called Dantesco, but everything was in Spanish, very good dinner and the Pinot noir was excellent- whole dinner including tip was around S$50 or £30. Same sort of pricing everywhere we go.

Iguassu Falls – Brazilian side

by Lynn, posted in Iguazu, Argentina

A good nights sleep awoken by the dawn at 6.30am, primarily because we forgot to draw one of the curtains behind the bed, but nonetheless refreshed. Quick breakfast, collected by 08:00. Friends Hugh & Maggie made on the previous day were collected at 07.10, so it definitely paid to be staying in the reserve, closer to the action if a longer lie in is desired!

A little more complex getting to the Brazilian side as need to go through the normal immigration controls, so in this instance worth paying for a guided trip. The falls this side were truly spectacular, the photos do them little justice, the power, energy and cacophony of sound is thrilling. Staring into the speed of the water falling is giddying (not sure that’s a real word) and indeed unbalancing.

We spotted some wildlife, a number of Iguanas, even a small crocodile but sadly didn’t sight a Jaguar 🐆 Off to try another restaurant tonight highly recommended La Dama Juana.

Iguazu Falls – Argentina

by Lynn, posted in Iguazu, Argentina

Pick up was at 07.45 where we joined 8 others, a smart touring van and a guide. We were their last stop as We are based in the forest. About 20 minutes later, arrived at the Argentina side of the falls. Some confusion followed as 6 of the group were booked on the big adventure – the clue is in the name! Fear of missing out the remaining 4 of us opted to do the same….and by the way it is raining. Hesk buys a fetching MAC and I stand smuggly in my Uniqlo rain resistant jacket – big mistake, huge! We board an open air truck with plenty of very wet seats … I wiped mine with a hankie and one of the guides sniggered! Twenty five minutes later in an open top vehicle gradually making its way via a cut through path in the jungle to the river, the rain resistant jacket, resisted no longer! I was very damp, David however remained reasonably dry.

As a precaution we were all given special dry bags to place our back packs, cameras etc.. another serious clue that left me a little concerned. We boarded the speed boat having donned life jackets. Apparently sitting somewhere in the middle was supposedly the driest spot. Seriously looking back I think they were toying with us. At least it was no longer raining and I didn’t feel quite so wet. Zoomed through the rapids, stopped to view the spectacular falls from below, then told to put phones and cameras in the dry bags. One of the guides questioned my intelligence as to why our shoes weren’t in the dry bag. Too late! They only went right into and under the falls and not one but several different ones…. wasn’t funny at all, water seeped into every area, soggy shorts, knickers worse, water trickling down my front, forget the hair and why did I put mascara on this morning! Seriously think I won the ridiculously most saturated being that disembarked that boat! Moral go with swimmers and flip flops, add a change of clothes to your back pack. At least I had a dry hat which I hid under to disguise the Bridget Jones hair! Stopped for a quick snack and David attracted a new friend from the raccoon family, a Coatis. Drip dry time followed, as we went off on the lower trail to view the falls in a civilised manner! However it took some hours until I was squelch free.

Spotted a Toucan and the odd lizard before getting glances of the falls from another perspective. The best was yet to come.

We moved onto a train that took us to a one kilometre walk along a purpose built walkway that brought us to the TOP of the falls, the devils throat. Seriously impressive.

On a note for a visitor, no need to book a tour – just get a cab [cabs are inexpensive] to the park and take it from there. You do not need a guide. In this instance we paid around £100 (£208 for 2 days both sides) that gave us a ride to the park, a guide that frankly we would have been as well off without and a ride home. We still had to pay for the entrance fee and the big adventure – fun but wet, wet, soaked! What seems worthwhile if you are a birder / twitcher is taking a private guide to one of their secret locations..

PS had an amazing meal at Aqva – highly recommend, can’t book but turn up and queue.

Iguazú & Aerolineas Argentinas

by Lynn, posted in Iguazu, Argentina

Set off this morning from our hotel in Buenos Aires, just ordered a yellow cab to the domestic airport (AEP) 30 minutes from our hotel, around $350 Pesos(US$5.50). You definitely do not need to organise taxis in advance when booking your trip. Cheaper and more efficient to do so in situ.

We were a little concerned about baggage allowance as everything Online was telling us 15 kilos allowance only and thereafter about £12 a kilo for anything over! We left some things in a bag at the Mine hotel that weren’t needed, to be collected on our return, just in case. David had put in a bid for an upgrade on this sector to Iguazú , which turns out to have saved the day as it came through. If the first leg of your trip is business class then you get 23 kilos each – and this we were told is extended to all our remaining legs even if travelling in economy, as is part of one booking. Something to be very aware of with Aerolineas Argentinas. Good seats and fast check in, so if you can get a cheap upgrade, it’s worth it! Flight was about 1 and a 1/2 hours.

Arrived at Iguazú on time and grabbed a taxi from the airport, couldn’t see any regular cabs so paid a fixed rate of $700 pesos (US$11) for a 25 minute journey, very informative driver who suggested some restaurants to eat at in town. Our hotel La Cantera Jungle Lodge, is exactly that, a series of stand alone rooms/units built in the jungle. Usual mattress inspection showed good clean beds with no additional visitors. After recent experiences in Japan, it pays to check!

Took a guided jungle walk at 17.15 with a lovely guide Nadia from the hotel where she introduced us to the flora and fauna and talked about the incredible bird life with over 500 species of birds locally and over 1000 different butterflies.

We went to one of the recommended restaurants – La Rueda – hmmm ok but nothing outstanding. Ate river fish tonight, sadly not memorable and service rather slow. Off to bed as need to be on a tour of the falls at 07.45!

Exploring Buenos Aires

by Lynn, posted in Buenos Aires, Atgentina

Mine Hotel is a boutique property in Palermo – a trendy, edgy area bustling with bars cafes and restaurants- really recommend it, good value, great rooms and incredibly helpful staff.

Ate a hearty breakfast and set off to change some US dollars into the local currency – currently $60 pesos to one dollar. A 25% depreciation of the Peso since June making everything seem exceptionally good value. The poor Argentines are only allowed to buy a maximum of USD250 per month. Be warned, finding places to change money, even at the airport is difficult. The only place to change money at BA’s EZE airport was at the National Bank which was closed when we arrived at 6pm. Not much use when cash required for Taxis.

After changing some money we set off to meet a free guided walking tour of the major areas of the city. Had to grab a cab as we were running late. Cab got there 20 mins after the tour started, but we spotted the group and joined them! The idea is you pay what you want at the end, depending on how you felt. Well worth doing, informative and fun. It lasted around 4 hours and conveniently finished by a famous bar, once renowned for being frequented by racing drivers, La Biela is one of the oldest cafes in the city. We were warned to be extra attentive and lookout for pick pockets and were given a list of various tricks susceptible tourists have been known to fall for, thankfully no issues today. We walked thru some beautiful Parks while the guide carefully explained the origins of the various areas of the city. Recoleta was a really interesting district with many old palaces and Parisienne style buildings. One of which remains the French Embassy. The walk ended with a visit to the mausoleum of “Evita” or Eva Duarte de Peron to give her full name.

The city was particularly beautiful today, with blue skies and a temperature of 25C, plenty of leafy trees, inviting side cafes and Jacaranda trees just starting to burst into colour. A very similar feeling to being in Sydney but with way more historical architecture and European influences. We walked about 17km in all and even experienced their impressive subway to get back to the hotel.

Off to Buenos Aires

by Lynn, posted in Buenos Aires, Atgentina

A morning strolling along the beach – so clever the snake like tubes leading down to the beach are perforated with holes and powered by a motor to feed water to a pathway otherwise impossible to tread! A quick shower and off to the international airport – tip use the yellow cabs – best price lah!

We flew with LATAM, part of one world alliance, and seriously basic, well the seat was, the cabin crew were fun. On arrival at BA we grabbed an Uber – amazing deal less than half that the airport taxis were charging plus we got a great personable driver. Arrived with a slight rain shower followed by a superb rainbow that framed the airport.

The Mine Hotel delightful in a great area – Palmero – dropped the bags and headed off to an amazing restaurant serving great steak, good wine and despite being a TOP restaurant in this area where you might expect to pay big bucks, this meal was less than £50! 4 glasses of wine, a beer, 600g steak and pud! Suspect the next few weeks will challenge the circumference of our waists. 😂

Sugar Loaf, Ipanema & Copacabana (Argentina tomorrow)

by Lynn, posted in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Sunday and the sun is shining and the sky a blanket of blue. After a power breakfast, grabbed a yellow cab to Sugar Loaf cable cars. A helpful young man enquired if Hesk might be over 60 (thankfully didn’t ask me) – half price £10 (but must show proof) instead of £20 at the current rate of exchange for the cable car- some advantages to age! Blessed with the fab weather we were in awe of the views from the first station and indeed the higher second station (pics below) – unreal – visions that have to be seen to truly understand the awesome panoramic vista of a truly incredible city, that and the soaring 30 plus Condors and 3 or 4 Frigets gliding on the thermals surrounding Sugar Loaf. Had to look up what the birds were – beginning to get why a couple of my friends are twitchers.

The airport for domestic flights also entertains with aircraft constantly performing downwind procedures over the vastly populated hillside before turning on their base leg with a sharp left for finals – we stood and watched the real birds and aircraft mesmerised for longer than we meant too! If you do nothing else in Rio, this really is a must do destination.

Heading back to the cable car and in a short queue, I was checking my pictures on my phone when something large literally dropped on my head! Have to say was a bit shocked and a little bruised – turned out a very small child had upended a post thing with a notice in a metal bracket, that flew into the air and landed on my head. Needless to say a lot of concerned people gave me a seat and having assessed that I would live and wasn’t too damaged – more shaken than anything let me be! 10 mins later we all boarded the cable car and the little chap who caused the commotion was pushed forward to check on me – poor little fellow think he was a bit puzzled as to what he had done, Anyway we sat at the mid station for half an hour to check for any ill effects with some water before heading down to base and then to Ipanema beach.

We stopped and sampled a beer and a caipirinha and admired the huge throng of colour and people on the beaches. A hive of activity and bodies of all shapes and sizes. A people watching paradise. By night the beaches are just beaches, by day a colourful spread of squat sunshades and low folding chairs. Walking towards Copacabana beach and our hotel, stopped for a civilised lunch- weirdly Italian as it turned out, with a couple of glasses of vino. Pit stopping at the hotel before hitting the beach for a spot of late afternoon chilling on the sandy Copacabana beach! Later perhaps Lapa for it’s Bohemian bars, live music, open air samba jive and night clubs but somehow I doubt we will be late as the body clock still woke me at 5am this morning but David at 7am.