Category: Mendoza, Argentina

A leisurely start to the day, breakfasting at 9am. A chat to some fellow British tourists lamenting Chile’s troubles and what they had seen in the last few days when they were visiting Santiago – burnt out military vehicles, looted buildings, boarded shops, fires…their tour operator had moved them to a hotel out of the centre and they still went on a tour that omitted all the main sites because of the violence. They said it’s far worse than is being reported.

After blast We left for Mendoza city. A good tip, set up Google maps whilst in wifi with your destination, even when no internet connection the GPS still works. All my mobile data is off as is David’s. However we did need it on two occasions for about 5 mins each time and it cost S$80. We are planning on buying a local data chip but yet to have passport handy when we find the right place.

Mendoza’s original city established in 1561 suffered a devastating earthquake in 1861, killing over 5000 people. A new city was established, with a modern grid system, very wide avenues lined with leafy trees & side walks with cafes and restaurants. There are some impressive colonial houses and a general European feel. Plaza Independencia is the biggest park in Mendoza and is very impressive covering 420 hectares. We walked about 8km building up an appetite for lunch. Lynn enjoyed a bit of retail therapy in Av.Sarmiento, but the perfectly fitting leather jacket has eluded her so far. Am sure it’s just a matter of time 🙂

We ate at La Marchiana, an Italian Argentinian restaurant that had great writes ups for it’s history and excellent cuisine. It was still fairly full and cool, (temperature outside around 28C) when we arrived at 2.30 and looked promising. The light spring salad was very good, the pasta good, feeling a little naughty we ordered dessert, it wasn’t worth the calories. Overall an average Italian. Still lunch with a couple of alcoholic drinks was only £30! Lonely Planet had it showing $$$. A very attentive waiter who it turned out was a Football fanatic who supports Leeds United because their manager is from Argentina. Nice young chap though 🙂

As mentioned a little shopping before lunch, Levi jeans, one pair £30 or S$50, also bought a t-shirt. After lunch drove back to the hotel, about 30 mins, for a late siesta. Most Argentinian’s siesta at least in the north is from 1pm to 5pm. Planning on a stroll a little later into our local village that has some lovely shops and bars, later pack for an early start with a 0955 flight to San Martin de los Andes(Patagonia) via Buenos Aires. Up until now the weather has treated us well with daytime temps in the mid to high 20sC and high teens at night. Things are looking to cool down a bit as we head south.

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Our hotel staff are very knowledgeable and helped us plan our day. We chose to drive ourselves with me literally tasting and not really drinking. As many of my friends know I really can’t drink much anyway before falling over! We were supposed to visit three, recommended max in a day, with the last stop also including a gourmet lunch. We were a bit slow this morning so only made the 11am wine tasting at Casarena Bodega in Lujan de Cuyo, 15 mins drive from our hotel, followed by a really lovely lunch and more tasting at Dominio del Plata, a further 10 minute drive away. The 9.30 tasting we felt was just a tad too keen. Seemingly you must book your visits, your hotel can do this for you or try direct on line with individual wineries.

Driving here is undaunting, however as two policemen tried to point out on our trip to the Andes yesterday, I got it on the second time of being stopped. All vehicles must have their headlights (not side lights as I had, after the first advisory) on at all times, day and night. Have yet to attempt night driving, probably won’t!

A wine tour can be booked with a single guide or with a group that will include lunch, but count on it costing a lot more, often more than 3 times as it would doing it yourself, which was our preference.

The first winery, now owned by an American family bought in 1995 from an Italian family who had initially established it in 1937. Seemingly many wineries are owned by foreigners and few by Argentines . The cost of the wine tour and generous tasting of 4 wines was $600 pesos per person or at this time US$10.

Pictures taken below include the way Wines are stored in order to ferment and mature. In the old days in large concrete tanks, now used as storage areas. Today mostly in stainless steel tanks, although they have created large concrete tanks similar to those used in the past, however, unlike the past, now with an epoxy lining. Wine is later transferred to American and French oak barrels. Many of the live vines had a protective taught mesh over them. I thought perhaps because of the many birds but no, it was to protect the vines from hailstones which at times can be as large as tennis balls. In every other aspect the climate is perfect for wine growing with much additional and essential irrigation. We watched a number of hawks circling and diving for their prey in and around the vineyards.

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Lunch Was taken at the next winery with views over lush vineyards. We enjoyed a fabulous 5 course gourmet meal with accompanying wines which was of a very high standard. David drank most of my wine! We finished with a coffee. This was the most expensive meal thus far, $6700 pesos or US$114 for two. Utterly amazing value, due mostly in part to the tough economic situation, rapid inflation and currency devaluation they are experiencing.

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After lunch we headed back to our welcoming hotel for a rest by the pool for the remaining part of the afternoon. The amount of birds and different species means you get to see and hear plenty of species without venturing far – the pool area being a perfect spot.

A quick word on laundry, certainly every hotel thus far offers a daily service and whilst you do prepare a list, the cost is charged by the bag. Just washed dried and folded at a cost of $500 pesos a bag – about US$8.5. Great value! Irons are available if you are so inclined.

Sunday – we slept in until 08.30 bliss, even read the papers before making it down to breakfast at 10. Today we decided to follow lonley planets advice and hit the Andes mountains. First stop an hour from Mendoza, the blue lakes of Poterillos Dam, stunning blue waters, then to Uspallater, another hours drive, winding our way higher, a very small town about 40 minutes from the ski resort (hmmm felt lonely planet over stated this place). Changed Drivers, now me, as honestly feeling a tad bit car sick, better that I drive! Another hour brought us to Aconcagua National Park,  but we decided to visit a place close to the Chillian border first -Cuevas, a stark border town in the shadows of the mountains. The best destination was the National Park, huge, desolate, stunningly beautiful and a joy to follow some of the trekking paths. We are the blue dot on the map below.

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Pictures of the journey there and finishing with those at the National park. Sadly they don’t capture the incredible beauty and multitude of colours that resonated though our amazing visit. Arrived back to the hotel having driven 6 hours, walked for 2 hours, in need of a shower, a drink and some food! Forgot to mention we were breathless as walking at 11300 ft. There were some people around but not many so a very special experience.

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