Category: Buenos Aires, Atgentina

Decided to walk to the famous market at Ricoleta, about 4km stroll along tree lined streets with a light breeze, blue skies and 24C.

The market was fun, about 200 stalls of various crafts including a lot of jewellery, mostly silver and enamel, pottery pieces, mate pots for their local brew, decorative glass. The market finished close to the large cemetery we had visited previously, featuring Eva Peron’s family mausoleum. We had the obligatory Beer at cafe biers. We bought a bamboo necklace from one chap who insisted we also take his picture to show who had crafted the item.. We walked about 14km in all.

On the way back, both of us having taken slightly different routes, we met at a street corner bar In Palermo and watched the passing people. There is a lot of poverty, currently about a third of the population, due to the currency crisis. Two children saw a table had left half their nachos and asked to finish it, which was granted. The waiter at the bar brought more out for them which was a wonderful gesture. However the waiter noticed one of our phones was on the table and he told us not to leave it exposed. With poverty comes increased crime, mostly from desperation. We have bought a lot of packets of tissues that people sell in desperation to get some cash to buy food. In other areas of Argentina you do see many abandoned new builds, many empty new properties and in BA quite a number of people sleeping rough. It’s a very sad situation that doesn’t look like it’s going to change anytime soon.

Enjoyed our last dinner in Argentina at a restaurant nearby our Hotel. A shared huge rib eye steak, salad and slightly too many glasses of Malbec. Met a fun couple at the next table who live in Surrey, even found we knew someone in common and even more coincidentally they have a son living on the same stretch of beach as Charlotte in Sydney. Heading back to Rio, early Monday morning to connect with our flight to London on Tuesday. Argentina has been amazing.

Thursday. Returning to BA, achieved another bid upgrade from Puerto Madryn. Another inflight delight for lunch, a very odd, flat, no crusts sandwiches and some nuts, no booze. Had a run in with AVIS as the chap inspecting our massively already scratched and battered car with 53 thousand miles on the clock, declared a new mark that they would charge us for! We have full cover through an annual car hire insurance with AIG, so will let them fight it, but seriously!

Weather fabulous, dry heat, 28C and NO WIND. Had a wander and a little shop in BA around the Palermo district, not forgetting a few drinks to quench our thirst at one of the many bars littering the delightful streets, currently adorned with a glorious mass of Jacaranda blossom. Didn’t manage a brilliant picture but these trees are everywhere. The only other place I have seen them is in Sydney.

Last night we dined at one of the best restaurants So far on this trip. Located in the Palermo district, Crizia is most expensive meal yet and still was less than US$150 – said to be one of the top restaurants in the country. Pictures doesn’t do it justice. The oysters, 6 natural, 6 lightly cooked with parmesan, lime and truffle oil, both sublime, David had braised Patagonian lamb with various accompanying vegetables and sauces and I had suckling pork, again with a fabulous array of the prettiest vegetables and sauces. We shared one of the best creme brûlée I have ever eaten, served with poached pears. All washed down with an excellent Patagonian Pinot Noir. Really good service too!

Mine Hotel is a boutique property in Palermo – a trendy, edgy area bustling with bars cafes and restaurants- really recommend it, good value, great rooms and incredibly helpful staff.

Ate a hearty breakfast and set off to change some US dollars into the local currency – currently $60 pesos to one dollar. A 25% depreciation of the Peso since June making everything seem exceptionally good value. The poor Argentines are only allowed to buy a maximum of USD250 per month. Be warned, finding places to change money, even at the airport is difficult. The only place to change money at BA’s EZE airport was at the National Bank which was closed when we arrived at 6pm. Not much use when cash required for Taxis.

After changing some money we set off to meet a free guided walking tour of the major areas of the city. Had to grab a cab as we were running late. Cab got there 20 mins after the tour started, but we spotted the group and joined them! The idea is you pay what you want at the end, depending on how you felt. Well worth doing, informative and fun. It lasted around 4 hours and conveniently finished by a famous bar, once renowned for being frequented by racing drivers, La Biela is one of the oldest cafes in the city. We were warned to be extra attentive and lookout for pick pockets and were given a list of various tricks susceptible tourists have been known to fall for, thankfully no issues today. We walked thru some beautiful Parks while the guide carefully explained the origins of the various areas of the city. Recoleta was a really interesting district with many old palaces and Parisienne style buildings. One of which remains the French Embassy. The walk ended with a visit to the mausoleum of “Evita” or Eva Duarte de Peron to give her full name.

The city was particularly beautiful today, with blue skies and a temperature of 25C, plenty of leafy trees, inviting side cafes and Jacaranda trees just starting to burst into colour. A very similar feeling to being in Sydney but with way more historical architecture and European influences. We walked about 17km in all and even experienced their impressive subway to get back to the hotel.

A morning strolling along the beach – so clever the snake like tubes leading down to the beach are perforated with holes and powered by a motor to feed water to a pathway otherwise impossible to tread! A quick shower and off to the international airport – tip use the yellow cabs – best price lah!

We flew with LATAM, part of one world alliance, and seriously basic, well the seat was, the cabin crew were fun. On arrival at BA we grabbed an Uber – amazing deal less than half that the airport taxis were charging plus we got a great personable driver. Arrived with a slight rain shower followed by a superb rainbow that framed the airport.

The Mine Hotel delightful in a great area – Palmero – dropped the bags and headed off to an amazing restaurant serving great steak, good wine and despite being a TOP restaurant in this area where you might expect to pay big bucks, this meal was less than £50! 4 glasses of wine, a beer, 600g steak and pud! Suspect the next few weeks will challenge the circumference of our waists. 😂