Estancia horse back ride and traditional Argentinian BBQ

After another average breakfast, we were picked up at 09.15 and set off to the Estancia some 30 km out of Bariloche into the foothills of the Andes mountains. Unfortunately whilst collecting the last of our party in the town the mini bus conked out! 40 minutes later, having got to know everyone a little better, a new bus having scooped us up and driving at some speed along some very rough unpaved roads, we arrived at the Estancia (ranch).

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On arrival we were welcomed with tea, coffee, Mate (a peculiar drink made from leaves of a bush growing all over Argentina – said to have properties to stave off hunger) and Patagonian bread snacks. Our gaucho guide gave an overview of the wildlife in the area. The red deer, not native but becoming such a problem that they are now culling the females, Pumas that live in caves in the surrounding mountainous area and the magnificent condors with wing spans of 2 to 3 meters.

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‘A gaucho or gaúcho is a skilled horseman, reputed to be brave and unruly. The gauchois is a national symbol in Argentina and Uruguay, but is also a strong culture in the far south region of Brazil. Gauchos became greatly admired and renowned in legend, folklore and literature and became an important part of their regional cultural tradition. Beginning late in the 19th century, after the heyday of the gauchos, they were much celebrated by South American writers.’ – Wikipedia

Back to the ranch, our horses were in excellent condition, obviously very well cared for and I discovered during the day, much loved by their gauchos. David with some trepidation mounted his horse, ‘Italco’ a fairy big beast. We weren’t offered any riding hats, so Hesk looked even more the part with his Aussie ‘Jacaru’ hat. I leapt on my horse (ed. Well the Gaúcho gave Lynn a good lift up) Cressida. We were given brief instructions, hold the reins in one hand, gently pull to stop, move the reins left to go left etc. I was near the front of 12 riders and Hesk was right at the back. I tried a bit of a sitting trot and my right thigh started to cramp so stuck with a gentle walk. After about 30 minutes I managed to persuade my mare to go to the back, she wasn’t too pleased. Realised the dust from the 11 horses and the 2 gaucho minders, mostly came backwards! However I stuck it out as felt I needed to keep an eye on Hesky as he was a very reluctant participant! However, it seemed he was managing very well.

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The scenery was breathtaking. The main gaucho had explained to us where the condors lived and pointed out the white areas staining the rocks, evidence of their droppings, and location of their nests in the mountains. I was lucky enough to watch 2 condors soaring above the mountainous terrain, but couldn’t get a good photo. He showed us the small cave where Pumas lived but we didn’t see any. David said he half expected to see “Injuns” on the crest of the rocks as we rode thru the valleys such was the nature of the ride. Very exhilarating and definitely must form part of any itinerary in Argentina.

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We ended the two hour ride back at the ranch where a traditional Parillas, Argentinian BBQ, awaited us. An excellent meal of Chorizo sausages and steak, with salad, plenty of Malbec and lots of stories shared with our new found riding friends. A good mix of Argentines, German, Swiss and of course us Brits.

On our return in the mini van we asked the driver to stop at a nearby shallow lake where dozens of flame pink flamingos, mostly with their heads submerged, had recently arrived. They had migrated from the Amazon ( 3000 miles to the North) apparently for the first time in 10 years as previous Seasons the lake had been dry. An amazing sight! Not the best photo but zoom in!

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Highly recommend one of these half day horse riding tours with lunch, inexpensive at around US$53 dollars a head, a lot of fun with breathtaking views. We only booked it the day before.

Back at the Hotel after a shower to wash the dust away, we took our laundry into town to be collected tomorrow afternoon. Having heard leather jackets are the thing to buy in Argentina we have been on the look out, but so far hadn’t found anything to buy, until today. We both bought one each as a souvenir of our visit. The softest lamb skin leather and very light weight.

Tomorrow we plan to do a little hiking in the Huapi National Park in Llao Llao about 35 km west of here; the forecast weather looks good until the afternoon at least.